"this because he does not wish to leave himself without the means of obtaining fuel”. However by 1860 the Land Commission of that year considered that after 20 years of settlement ”perhaps 30 or 40 acres of cleared land” per farm to be the norm3°3, a value that embraces the average value obtained from the census of 1861.30“ The effect for the forest was that clearing began in the narrow front of each farm that faced the coast or the road, with the cleared area being pushed into the back end of the farm only gradually.305 The overall result was that a large body of uncleared and initially old-growth woodland was retained, comprising the contiguous back ends of adjacent farms, and these would most probably run into the back ends of the farms on the next roughly parallel road. During the course of the nineteenth century these large areas of uncleared forest gradually became the ’islands’ of forest that are very evident in Chalmers' map of 1895, and that are still with us today. The landscape effects of forest clearance Though we cannot divorce the effects of forest clearance from other effects on the landscape that were occurring at the same time (I am thinking especially of the effects of forest fire that will be described in the next section), | wish to consider here only the effects on the landscape of settlement and forest clearance. In the eighteenth century, as we have already seen, the island had been described by many recorders as being completely covered with forest.306 With the beginning of British settlement in the 17705, as the trees were cut down to create farmland, inroads began to be made into this forest in a few 3‘” From the Appendix to the Report of the Land Commission (1860) (not extracted), as cited by Clark (1959) (p. 214). 30‘ The average amount of cleared land per farm in 1861 was 33 acres. Average values from some of the other island censuses are as follows: in 1841 — 22 acres; 1848 — 24; 1855 — 34; and 1881 — 44. These are of course averages, and second and third generation islanders, and perhaps the longer established immigrants, would have had amounts of cleared land greater than this on their farms. (These calculations are based on census data for the number of farms as quoted in Clark (1959) (pp. 95, 134), and for the total area of arable land on the island as contained in Glen [see footnote 200].) 305 As Johnstone (1822) and Lawson (1851) point out, many farms on the island took the form of a long narrow strip with 10 chains (660 feet) of frontage along a river or coastline, or later along a road, and 100 chains of depth (a legacy that has remained with us ever since, as can be seen in ‘Meacham's Atlas'). 306 See footnote 17. 49 selected areas. As a result, the landscape of the island began to undergo a profound transformation, which to begin with, was slow and gradual, but which was to greatly speed up in the nineteenth century in line with the accelerating rate of settlement.307 I think that the most useful way of demonstrating the changes that occurred in the landscape due to agricultural clearance is to present six different landscape descriptions from the contemporary records, each containing a visual image of the island at a different stage in its settlement. The first of these comes from a letter written in 1793 by the Quaker John Cambridge from his base at Murray Harbour, to two women back in England who were about to set sail to join him on the Island of St. John. Settlement at that time was restricted to the shoreline and waterways of the island, and Cambridge’s aim was to prepare the newcomers psychologically for a landscape very different from that of their English homeland: Let me intreat you both to prepare your minds not to see numberless green fields but groves upon groves of wilderness woods with here and there a mean house in a small opening erected on the edge of a river. . But thy Experience has long told thee not to seek a Paradise on Earth. 308 The second vignette, from a lengthy essay written for a local newspaper by an unnamed author in 1867, recalls the landscape of the island as much of it had been thirty or so years before, in the 1830s and 1840s. He describes an island where the new roads that had been pushed into many of the 'inland’ parts were beginning to attract newly- arrived immigrants to settle along them: 307 The rapidity of landscape change from the 1820s onward is evident from two extracts from the journal of Horatio Mann, the proprietor of the northern half of Lot 27, who visited the island six times between 1821 and 1844. In the first extract, on 29 July 1829 he wrote: “The rapid improvements made and still making is truly great; for Mr. P[ope] [said] that only 11 years ago that this large settlement [of Tryon] also the great improvements on the road for upwards of 12 miles [between Bedeque and Tryon], was at that period a compleat Wilderness of heavy Woods"; in the second, on 24 August 1840: “We started from Charlottetown [along the Princetown Road heading for Bedeque]... the roads were most excellent. In short, the number of log houses going up on the road side, with burning and chopping down trees, and that for miles, and in places beholding fine clearances and in many places good farms of from 20 to 30 acres with the prospect of good crops, The appearances to me after 6 years absence gave an entire new aspect to the country around." 3°” Cambridge 1793.